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The beauty of Capri is that it combines all that is magical in one perfect setting. Shimmering blue water, phenomenal views, warm hospitality and the best shopping you can imagine.
- Fallon Fitzgerald
- Sep 23, 2024
- 9 min read
I believe there are three types of people in this world. Those that have never been to Capri, those that don't see what the big deal is, and those that simply love it. I am one of the latter.
As summer comes to an unfortunate end, and we start to think about our Autumn and Winter getaways, I thought it would be a perfect time to round out my last blog post of the Summer, on Capri.
I am confident in saying that those that don't see what the big deal with Capri is, have never spent much time on the island. In fact, they probably visited the island as part of a day trip only. These are the worst types of tourists on the island of Capri. They arrive by the boatload, in their shorts and T-shirts clogging up the walkways, clustered in the square. They don't stay overnight; in fact, they all leave on the last ferry off the island. When this happens, the magic begins...
Around 6:00 PM, the throngs of banal tourists thin out, and the guests that belong to the island's night come out to begin their evening. People of all ages, waif-thin model-esque types, Well-heeled and perfectly coiffed older women emerge a couple of hours before sundown to take aperitivo on terraces throughout the island. Italian, French, and English chatter, along with the gentle clinking of glassware becomes the soundtrack to the town as the light changes, and it's as though the island begins to celebrate the dull people have left the island and she begins to sparkle.
I realize as I write this, that some people reading this may be horrified at what I write. I don't mind. I believe that Capri is a sparkling jewel, and that she should be protected at all costs. Protected from overcrowding, over tourism, and from becoming a soulless pre-packaged tourist destination.
So, what I write here, is intended to inspire those that are willing to stay at least a few days on the island, swim in her beautiful coves, eat in the locally owned and run restaurants, establish true relationships with her locals, and only convince others that will do the same to visit.
The first time I went to Capri, I was days out from celebrating my engagement...
I had always wanted to visit the Amalfi coast, and we had organized a trip to visit for my 41st birthday. I had asked Keva, a regular visitor to the area her recommendations on where I should spend the most of my time. Luckily for me, Keva insisted I should spend the most of my time on the island of Capri. As usual, I had done my research, and I settled on a small family run hotel named "La Residenza." We were to stay here for three nights, before moving on to Amalfi.
The staff at La Residenza welcomed us as though we were long lost family members, returning from being away for many years. It was a welcome unlike one I had experienced in recent times at a hotel. We were so enamored with the way we were received at the hotel, that the following year when we chose to celebrate our wedding in Capri, the majority of our friends and family members stayed here with us.
"There are so many things to do on Capri, I really think a month or two would be perfect"
You have to remember, before Instagram, before social media, Italians and other Europeans were spending their summers on the coast and on her islands. When I was little, my Belgian grandmother used to have a house in Ibiza. We would spend long lazy summer days with cousins and second cousins, searching for sea urchins, and exploring grottoes with the clearest water you've ever seen. Capri is the glamorous grown-up sophisticated version of this childhood memory for me.
Beach Clubs
Given that Capri is an island, it is natural to expect numerous beach clubs to explore during your stay. Typically, these beach clubs adopt a relaxed atmosphere, encouraging visitors to spend their day leisurely by the water's edge without any worries.
Some of the more popular beach clubs are:
La Fontelina, a premium highly sought after Beach Club. It is well known for its Instagram worthy setting; it is a must to book well in advance especially during the high season.
Da Luigi ai Faraglioni, one of the very first lidos on the island. Established in 1936, This is my personal favorite. It is reachable either by boat, or down the spiraling walkway, Located right next to La Fontelina.
Bagni di Tiberio, Located on the northern side of the island of Capri. It is a 15-minute walk from Marina Grande. It is a sought-after destination for families with children, because of its shallow waters and ease of accessibility.
Da Gioia, is a hidden gem on a private beach, known for its relaxed and tranquil vibe. It is part of the "Hotel La Palma" and is accessible for lunch or to enjoy the beach club if you have a reservation.
Da Gioia
Torre Saracena, is a small sandy pebbly-covered beach located along the coast of marina piccola. Not at all pretentious, and a favorite among locals and visitors since 1906.
La Canzone del Mare, one of the Islands most fashionable Lido's since the 1950's, The stylish terraces are located in the bay of Marina Piccola. The lido boasts two swimming pools, one which is off-limits to children from 1:00pm - 4:00pm. The amenities are superior to other beach clubs on the island, as they have hairdryers, showers, changing rooms and lockers, making it the perfect convenience for those heading out to dinner directly after a day at the beach.
Le Ondine, Close to the iconic funicular by the Piazetta, this little slice of heaven is close to the port, and one of the first beach clubs people encounter when arriving to the island of Capri.
Faro di Punta Carena, one of the best beach clubs in Capri, located beneath the lighthouse at Punta Carena, it has long been a safe haven for local islanders. The picturesque swimming destination is tucked into the cliffside and has panoramic views of the ocean.
Il Riccio, located within the luxurious Capri Palace, perched atop a dramatic cliff, and boasting direct sea access via a staircase into the ocean, not far from the jetty next to the blue grotto.
Not all beaches in Capri require a payment for the use of sunbeds, and chairs. There are two free public beaches at Marina Piccola, located on either side of what is called "Scoglio delle Sirene" or "Sirens Rock".
Public beach at Sirens Rock
Also, adjacent to the ferry ticket office departing from the mainland, there is a large public beach at Marina Grande. It's worth noting that the sun sets earlier on this beach due to the mountain blocking its path, but this provides a shaded area that is ideal for families and children.
Restaurants
Capri's microclimates offer a wealth of local ingredients nurtured by the island's unique environmental diversity. The island's diverse ecosystem fosters the growth of specialty produce and creates a favorable environment for agriculture.
On Capri, you'll find Chefs working with farm-to-table ingredients such as locally caught fish, and vegetables grown on the island. Restaurants will typically feature a host of recipes featuring traditions of the Campania region, often with a modern twist.
A word of warning, during the summer months, restaurants are booked far in advance, so be sure to make your reservations!
Some of the most highly sought after restaurants are:
Il Riccio, A chic yet informal Mediterranean style restaurant, perched atop the cliffside with spectacular views over Capri Bay and Sorrento. The restaurant is home to the iconic "dessert room."
Il Riccio
Panorama, An informal family-owned restaurant with breathtaking views over the sea towards Mount Vesuvius. Traditional dishes, prepared with a modern twist. (I actually hosted my welcome dinner here this past summer, and I have to say, this restaurant will forever hold a special place in my heart)
Da Paolino, dine under 130 lemon trees, this restaurant has risen to Insta-fame, as a must visit restaurant, fit for celebrities and foreign dignitaries.
Zuma, not something you would expect to see on a list of "must visit restaurants" in Capri, but it's located on the rooftop of the Jumeriah hotel and is a nice change when you've had enough pasta.
Le Monzù, located at the infamous Punta Tragara hotel, this restaurant is the only Michelin star restaurant in Capri (there is another one in the town of Anacapri.) Le Monzù is hands-down my most favorite restaurant ever, as its where I hosted my Wedding dinner in June 2024 for 50 guests.
Le Monzù
Another perfect way to spend the day in Capri, is to rent a boat for the day.
Most of the beaches and beach clubs in Capri are best reached by boat, so it's a great idea to rent a boat while you are here so that you can explore as much as possible. Boat tours, and private boat tours typically leave from Marina Grande. I suggest having lunch somewhere on the water like La Fontalina or Da Gioia, and having a boat pick you up after lunch where you can spend the rest of the afternoon bobbing about the bays at your leisure. There are countless coves, and grottoes to explore. The views from the water are simply breathtaking. I personally believe the south side of the island, closest to Marina Piccola, is much prettier than the north side of the island which is where Marina Grande is. In my visits, the water has been much calmer on the south side of the island, and the beaches tend to have sunlight for longer than the beaches on the north side because of the mountain.
Il Riccio is by the blue grotto at the northwest of the island, The water tends to be much choppier here, and if you are prone to sea sickness, I would not recommend arriving to or from il Riccio by boat.
During my visits to Capri, I've used let it be Capri boat tours, And I have always been very happy with their service. They allow you to cater your experience to suit your needs. During my wedding celebrations, I actually hired one of their boats for the day, and it picked guests up at il Bagni Internazional, And took them on tours wherever they wanted to go. A lot of the guests remarked that it was one of the highlights of their visit to Capri. My 80-something year old Father-in-Law Still speaks about how wonderful it was to swim in the Green Grotto the day after the wedding.
Capri has some of the best shopping, anywhere.
My ideal day in Capri would involve relaxing at a beach club, sunning leisurely by the water's edge. Enjoying a tasty lunch of freshly prepared branzino fileted right at the table, or spaghetti alla nerrano while sipping on a couple of Aperol's, soaking up the sun, while the sound of cicada's blends with the gentle ocean waves. Later, I'd head back to my hotel for a refreshing shower before indulging in aperitivo on the terrace at the Grand Hotel Quisisana. Following this, I'd take myself for a stroll along Via Camarelle in search of my next treasure.
Via Cammarelle is home to Bottega Veneta, Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Missoni, Pucci, Gucci, Hermes, Balenciaga, Dolce and Gabbana, Versace, Valentino, Saint Laurent, Brunello Cucinelli, Celine, Bvlgari, Loro Piana, and more...
It is impossible to not find something special to treat yourself here. The boutiques are beautifully decorated and typically have a much larger selection of items than I've found in other cities. if you want something that feels typically, Capri I'd suggest something colorful and flowy from Pucci, or something patterned and bright from Dolce and Gabbana. Up towards the main square, off Via Cammerelle are more stores and boutiques. Honestly, there isn't a more fun place to go shopping than on Capri.
Don't forget to ask the sales associate to give you the tax back form. They will need your passport details so don't forget to bring it with you when you go shopping in Capri!
Capri is also known, as is most of the Amalfi Coast, for its ceramics. No stay on capri would be complete without bringing home a ceramic sea urchin or octopus tentacle, or lemon bowl. I promise you this, the boredom of beige interiors will leave your home the second you step foot on Capri,
Nightlife in Capri
Although Capri is a dynamic Island, it is not a place known for its nightlife. Unlike the Greek island of Mykonos, or the Balearic Island of Ibiza, Capri is not a party town, she's far more sophisticated than that.
Capri is where the well-heeled go to rest, recuperate and frolic. After dinner, old money and nouveau riche, residents and celebrities alike inevitably end up in the piazza, a multigenerational mélange from all corners of the globe, enjoying live music, sometimes singing along, and as the clock in the square edges closer to midnight, an all our raucous party develops.
There is a saying, that half the people on earth have been to Anema e Core, and that saying would be true if half the people on earth had been to Capri. There is one Nightclub on the Island, and I use that term loosely, it's more of a Taverna where everyone ends up after the Piazza. The music is kitschy, it feels like a bad wedding band walking in, but something about this place is pure magic. Its corny and cheesy but before you know it, you're dancing on a table with a tambourine in hand having the time of your life!
So, there you have it, in my opinion Capri is a truly marvelous place. There is no other place quite like it on this earth. From the months of May through September it is an adult playground, shimmering with effervescent energy, a place where you feel more alive and equally more at peace than anywhere you have been before.
I hope your travels take you here at some point. And if they do, don't forget to stay awhile, in order to soak it in properly.
Fallon xo
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